April Newsletter

Each month we will bring you a topic that is top of mind for us as Restaurateurs, Chefs, Sommeliers, or simply SF residents. Today, what continues to cloud my mind is the notion that fine dining, this exciting, enticing, dreamy concept that captivates diners all over the world, is taking the fall for the restaurant industry’s inability to provide a sustainable work environment for employees, guests, and business owners alike.  

Recent news that Noma, arguably one of the top restaurants in the world, is closing, and citing that fine dining is not sustainable as the reason, has launched this idea across the nation, and the world, that it is no longer possible in today’s modern era to have a restaurant that is considered fine dining, all the while supporting the goals of employee empowerment, fair wages and benefits for all, practical working schedules, diversity and inclusion, and at the same time be a profitable business venture.  For those of us working day in and day out in this industry, we know first-hand the adversity caused by labor shortages, rising cost of living, inflation, product scarcity, residual COVID effects such as lack of tourism, and the list keeps going on and on. (Don’t get me started on Atmospheric Rivers and Cyclone Bombs!) Despite all of this, I don’t believe fine dining is dead, nor is it unsustainable, and most certainly it is not the reason restaurants aren’t equitable in nature compared to operating a business in other industries.

I do think it might be time that we think differently about how we, both those of us in the industry and those of us who are avid consumers and supporters, define what fine dining is. Price doesn’t dictate fine dining. Ambiance doesn’t dictate fine dining. Music, or lack there of doesn’t dictate fine dining. plateware, silverware, glassware, table clothes (even tables, or lack thereof!), uniforms…none of this dictates the fine dining experience. When you truly look at the building blocks of fine dining, it starts with relentless hospitality and undying passion to create a memorable experience for each and every guest. As with everything in life, concepts and social norms evolve and change over time, and fine dining is no different. While guests wants and desires have evolved, and chefs and restaurateurs’ approaches have completely changed, the foundation has remained rock solid…just presented differently.   

What used to be described as technically perfect service can now be viewed as pretentious and intrusive. What was once applauded as creativity within pushing boundaries of food has since morphed into the less is more enjoyment of simple, authentic food showcasing heritage vs technique. We see staff who have worked and trained at some of the top restaurants seeking more relaxed environments, music choices, uniforms, but still maintain the ability to provide the same quality of service, food, and hospitality that are not defined by their surroundings. Guests too have impacted change when it comes to defining the idea of fine dining. Many guests today are looking for a comfortable, yet refined atmosphere, showcasing energy and excitement as well authenticity to create a unique and magical experience. They are happy to sacrifice what may have been thought of in the past as luxuries, such as white tablecloths or fancy silverware, and instead demand personable, attentive, customized service, thoughtful, yet instagramable food, and a level of comfort that was often overlooked in the past.

At the same time, we are starting to see the level of business acumen improve and work tangentially with chef’s visions and guests demands. Business decisions are now carefully made to allow for the ‘fine dining sandbox’ to still exist. It may not be as big as it once was, and for everyone to play nicely there will be a little give and take on each side (think limited choices, cancellation fees, service charge included, etc.), but when developed correctly, one can create a restaurant providing world class food, hospitable and technically stellar service, and most importantly, cultivating an experience that leaves the guest fighting to come back. All the while, it is entirely possible to foster an environment that compensates employees well, provides them opportunities for growth, and promotes cultural acceptance and awareness.

The end result? Restaurants like Trestle, Cassava, and Marlena in San Francisco, Sixty Three Clinton and Atoboy in New York, AnnaLena in Vancouver as well as Han Oak in Portland have all re-imagined the idea of fine dining. They are living proof that you can present excellent food and thoughtful, precise service, in an environment that is comfortable and elegant, yet not even charge $100/person. Even better, these restaurants prioritize their employees’ and their guest’s well-being, creating a space to enjoy all of the touches of fine dining hospitality while stripping away the layers of unneeded expense.

Fine dining is definitely not dead, nor unsustainable, it just looks a little different, kind of like society as a whole. While many still believe to create a truly fine dining experience it requires punishing schedules, demoralizing leadership, expectations of perfection and exorbitant prices, I would argue that the people who are passionate about their craft, strategic with their execution, and operate with an equal sense of integrity and ethics for their staff and their guests alike can achieve a level of fine dining and business success anywhere they choose to operate.